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Detailed map of a portion of Alaska and the Pacific Northwest, prepared to illustrate the expedition of the Duke of Abruzzi to climb Mount St. Elias in the summer of 1897, coincidentally timed with the earliest portion of the Alaskan Gold Rush.

Shown on the map as M. S. Elia, Mount St. Elias (18,008 feet tall on the border Alaska and Canada), is among the tallest in North America. The first recorded attempt to climb Mount St. Elias was undertaken in 1886 by an expedition led by Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka of the U.S. Army. Schwatka’s team approached the mountain via the Malaspina Glacier, but poor weather, illness, and a lack of sufficient climbing equipment forced them to retreat without reaching the summit.  

The first successful ascent of Mount St. Elias occurred in 1897, during an expedition organized by the Duke of Abruzzi, Luigi Amedeo of Italy. The Duke assembled an experienced team that included Lieutenant Umberto Cagni, photographer Vittorio Sella, Dr. Filippo De Filippi, and four Alpine guides. Departing from Turin in May 1897, the team traveled via New York and Seattle to Yakutat, Alaska, where they began their arduous trek to the mountain.   

The 1897 Italian expedition to Mount St. Elias, organized by the Duke of Abruzzi, began in February 1897, with the Duke documenting climate conditions, distances, and logistical needs, relying on previous expedition reports and correspondence with experienced explorers. His team included Lieutenant Umberto Cagni, Francesco Gonella (president of the Turin section of the Italian Alpine Club), Dr. Filippo De Filippi, photographer Vittorio Sella, four Alpine guides, and porter Erminio Botta. Their purpose was not only to achieve a mountaineering milestone but also to uphold the Duke's personal commitment to scientific exploration and national pride.

The group departed from Turin, Italy in May 1897. After crossing the Atlantic aboard the Lucania and arriving in New York, they traveled by train to Seattle, where they embarked on the next leg of their journey to Sitka, Alaska. Continuing north by ship, they made stops to interact with local Native populations before reaching Yakutat, the gateway to the wild hinterland. From Yakutat, the team advanced onto the Malaspina Glacier and into Newton Valley, carefully scouting their route to the summit. After a failed summit attempt on July 19, caused by an optical illusion from the unusually clear air, the team regrouped for a final assault on July 30, 1897.

Dr. Filippo De Filippi’s account vividly describes the climactic ascent. At 11 PM, the team set out for the summit. By morning, climbers Petigax and Maquignaz stepped aside to allow the Duke of Abruzzi to be the first to stand on the peak of Mount St. Elias, declaring victory with the cry, “Hurrah for Italy and for Savoy!”  

The expedition returned to Seattle on August 27, traveling eastward through Canada and taking in the extraordinary landscapes of British Columbia and the Great Lakes before arriving in London on September 11. The Italian Geographic Society preserved Filippo De Filippi’s diary, which he wrote during the expedition’s quieter moments, chronicling their achievements. Many team members went on to join the Duke on subsequent explorations, including a polar expedition in 1899 and other ventures into uncharted mountain ranges.